Uzbekistan to Turkmenistan Border Crossing

12 June 2017

Bukhara to Mary.

We had to leave early in the morning due to a border crossing at Alat- Farb from Uzbekistan to Turkmenistan and the heat. We had no idea how the border crossing would go. We had heard stories of long delays and people flying back to Samarkand to arrange visas. Fortunately, we had our letter of introduction and the process took about 5 hours because the border guards and officials needed to have their 1 ½ hour lunch break which they took in the middle of processing the cars and our visas. The cars were parked in the blazing sun – it was so hot that the tar melted and coated everyone shoes in a thick gooey mess. We were able to set up camp in the waiting room, with air con and bought in our picnic chairs and proceeded to have our lunch and a nap. They checked everyone medications, bags and back packs – then their Xray scanner broke down. Oh well we finally drove away towards Mary arriving there quite late in the evening. Sand dunes lined the rough potholed, corrugated and heavily ridged road occasionally we stopped for a herd of camels, sheep or goats and cattle, herded by young boys.

It is intriguing how each country has it chosen mode of transport here in Uzbekistan is was the Daewoo mini van which hurtled by us packed with to the gunwales  with people, luggage and produce. China saw very new and expensive cars mainly Audi, BMW, Mercedes, VW, Toyota and Lexus. In Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, old Ladas, old Soviet trucks, and other unidentifiable Soviet vehicles. When driving in the Stans marked lanes don’t exist so often there could be 4 cars overtaking you on what is a 2 lane roads. But everywhere we have been the people are welcoming and happy to see us beeping their horns and taking photos with their iphones – yes everyone has an iphone.

Dress codes for men and women change with each country. In Uzbekistan the women all wore long  colourful dresses with elaborate headdresses which have been worn for centuries. In Turkmenistan there was a mixture of Western styles and more traditional designs. In rural areas women wore scarves and long skirts and jackets. Even men observed the rule of long pants not shorts.

13 June – 14 June 2017

Mary to Ashgabat Turkmenistan

Yesterday the drive from Mary was a long and hot one with interesting road conditions. Since entering Turkmenistan we have noticed that not only do we have the regular type of corrugations, pot holed oversized bumps on the asphalt but deep ridges which run parallel with the direction of the road. It isn’t difficult to see why the asphalt deteriorates rapidly due to the extreme heat and continuous use by heavy trucks.  

Thankfully the road improved and the kms flew by. They needed to – we were driving parallel with the Iranian border which we could see not far from the road. But the landscape, a desert was flat, barren and the short shrubby vegetation was rapidly drying out in the extreme heat (about 40- 42’’C). The highway created the illusion of a shimmering black ribbon clouded in the haze from the desert. Now I understand how people can be tricked into seeing things from a mirage.

On the other side of the road in the odd place you could see lush green orchards and fields of wheat, growing with the benefit of the large canal which flows to the Caspian Sea. On the way we stopped at an ancient site called Abivert which relied on well water and bores for its survival from 7 century BC. The last remnants of mud , clay brick houses from the 18 century could be seen along with many pieces of broken pottery. I found a broken clay piece with a handle, which I left on the pile for others to look at.

Ashgabat is a modern city full of white marble colossus buildings. Leveled in 1948 by earthquake and rebuilt in Soviet style. Lots of marble palaces, gold domes and manicured parklands dot the city providing cool places to walk in the blazing summer sun. After breakfast on the 14 June there was a city tour to see Nisa State Historical Reserve in Bagyr Village. Kypchak Memorial Centre and then Ashgabat City Tour, unfortunately I missed it due to a tummy bug but Peter enjoyed seeing the massive white marble buildings. He was back around 12.30pm due to the heat.

After midday no-one goes outside, the streets are deserted only emerging after the sun has set. The contrast between white marble buildings, expensive airports and shabby old Soviet style cottages is significant. People here really didn’t look happy.  Ashgabat could be classed as one of the strangest places in Asia.

Ashgabat – one strange place and more…

13 June – 14 June 2017

Mary to Ashgabat Turkmenistan

Yesterday the drive from Mary was a long and hot one with interesting road conditions. Since entering Turkmenistan we have noticed that not only do we have the regular type of corrugations, pot holed oversized bumps on the asphalt but deep ridges which run parallel with the direction of the road. It isn’t difficult to see why the asphalt deteriorates rapidly due to the extreme heat and continuous use by heavy trucks.  

Thankfully the road improved and the kms flew by. They needed to – we were driving parallel with the Iranian border which we could see not far from the road. But the landscape, a desert was flat, barren and the short shrubby vegetation was rapidly drying out in the extreme heat (about 40- 42’’C). The highway created the illusion of a shimmering black ribbon clouded in the haze from the desert. Now I understand how people can be tricked into seeing things from a mirage.

On the other side of the road in the odd place you could see lush green orchards and fields of wheat, growing with the benefit of the large canal which flows to the Caspian Sea. On the way we stopped at an ancient site called Abivert which relied on well water and bores for its survival from 7 century BC. The last remnants of mud , clay brick houses from the 18 century could be seen along with many pieces of broken pottery. I found a broken clay piece with a handle, which I left on the pile for others to look at.

Ashgabat is a modern city full of white marble colossus buildings. Levelled in 1948 by earthquake and rebuilt in Soviet style. Lots of marble palaces, gold domes and manicured parklands dot the city providing cool places to walk in the blazing summer sun. After breakfast on the 14 June there was a city tour to see Nisa State Historical Reserve in Bagyr Village. Kypchak Memorial Centre and then Ashgabat City Tour, unfortunately I missed it due to a tummy bug but Peter enjoyed seeing the massive white marble buildings. He was back around 12.30pm due to the heat.

After midday no-one goes outside, the streets are deserted only emerging after the sun has set. The contrast between white marble buildings, expensive airports and shabby old Soviet style cottages is significant. People here really didn’t look happy.  Ashgabat could be classed as one of the strangest places in Asia.

15 June

Ashgabat to Mashad

We were up for a long stretch of single day driving from Ashgabat through Iran and into Turkey. This is necessary because distances are long and locations are only way stops. We crossed from Turkmenistan into Iran at Bajgiran. And it was on with the headscarf immediately along with long pants and tops– at least we don’t have to worry about our hair….

The country side is desert, mountainous and barren with numerous checkpoints on the tops of the mountains and it was hot.

Mashad is the second largest city in Iran and second most religious city to Mecca. Everything looks like it is left overs from the Shah’s era and quite run down. And the drivers are crazy, no indicators and no stopping, no waiting to do a turn they just do it.

Friday, 16 June 2017

Mashad

It was a Holy Day today and everything was closed, even the money changers. As foreigners we are allowed to eat in the hotel but not outside. We visited the Imam Reza shrine Complex, and a carpet museum, coin museum, Nader Shah tomb, Ferdowsi Mausoleum and Harouneh.

This is the second largest holiest Islamic shrine in the world after Mecca. Today they were expecting 2 million worshippers in the evening. Before we could go in, all the ladies in the team were dressed into a chador so we could enter the Shrine complex. Our bags were checked and all water had to be shown to be water, no makeup was allowed. We had our headscarves on and then a full length chador was placed over our heads and was tied under our chins. It was an enormous place as you can imagine – everywhere we walked it was in our soxs or bare feet across hectares of carpets for miles. All women were covered in a chador – most were black but ours were patterned so we stood out. This shrine contained the tomb of Imam Reza and is sheltered by an enormous golden dome. At times it was unbearable to walk across the carpets because they were so hot from the sun. We searched out paved areas so we could put our shoes on.

One special courtyard was constantly filled with hundreds of mourners, constantly coming and going for numerous funerals; in the time we were there about 8 to 10 funerals were in the process of being conducted.

We had a very interesting talk by one of the Imams who talked about the Shrine and its significance. And the opportunity to visit a special womens only area which was lined with millions of pieces of cut mirrors and chandeliers. No photos but we were given a beautifully photographed book.

The tour was long and very hot and we were back in the mid afternoon to rest from the 40+ degree heat.

 

Bukhara – 1001 nights and many sights.

11 June-12 June

Bukhara

Now the Heat has begun to increase as we continued to forge Westward. The roads were still terrible with erratic drivers and animals appearing on the road suddenly. The other obstacle have been the uzbek traffic police who have taken great delight in  stopping one of the MGs in the vain attempt to extract some holiday pay from us. Has so far ended up with a cheerful photo and wave. Speed limits are low here – between 30 through villages to 80km. But you wouldn’t want to do more because of the state of the roads. So we do around 75 – 80 on a better road, others its been down to 65km.

Bukhara is a small city and looks just the way I imagined a town or city from the Arabian nights to look. Large square ponds with fountains, surrounded by paved bazaars and covered colonnades and covered archways and alleys to protect the walker from the intense afternoon sun.  The squares and colonnades came alive from about 6.00pm, traders stacking stalls, vendors arranging fruit, drinks and sweets . Walking around we had a chance to wander into some of the old caravanseri which hadn’t been restored. After sunset and everyone has broken their daily fast for the season of Ramadan the place springs to life. Families are out promenading around, children are taking rides on garish flashing lit coloured electric remote control cars around the square, giggling . Music from one of the many traditional kebab houses mingles with the aromas of cooked meats.

The Ark – a fortress and citadel in Bukhara

The Ark is a fascinating building – a mud and clay brick fortress with rounded walls and turrets rising out of the flat desert plains like a monolith. Built entirely from mud and clay parts of it overlook the square below. Arched cross hatched windows for the ladies of the harem look down onto the square below, adjacent to the Imirs’’tower and viewing platform where he and they could observe the executions below. Two unlucky British Victorian solidiers Stoddart and Connolly accused of spying were supposed to have met their fate here at the Ark Bukhara became the inspiration for a novel the Great Game, based on the war between Russia and Britain .

Another beautiful construction we walked to was the Samanid Mausoleum, entirely constructed from clay bricks, using only pattern work to decorate it. It is a perfect example of dome which is based on the principle of 4, 8, 16, 32 and 64 for it to gain its strength.

Walking city tour: Ark Fortress (I-XX CC), Poi-Kalyan complex with Kalyan Minaret (XII C), trade domes of Toki Zargaron (XV C), Toki Sarrafon (XVI C), Toki Telpak Furushon (XVI C), Ulugbek Madrassah (XV C), Abdulazizkhan Madrassah (XVII C), Lyabi Hauz complex (XVI -XVII CC).

Walking later in the afternoon due to heat in bazaars and markets under cool archways was a pleasant way to escape the blazing heat. 

City of Opposites and Yurts – Glamping…

8 June

Samarkand

 

This morning we went for a further city tour of this city of opposites.

Now a modern well groomed city. Founded 5c bc. Captured by Alex the Great in 329BC, obliterated by Ghengis Khan in 1220, rebuilt by Timur in 1370. Ulughbek Observatory, built in XV century by Timurid ruler and astronomer, visit to Excavation of an ancient city and museum of Afrosiab, and Tombstone of Saint Daniyar. The prophet Daniyar (Daniel) is revered by three world religions: Christianity, Judaism and Islam, and mausoleum is still a pilgrimage place for the followers of all three Abrahamic religions. Famous as Daniel in the Lion’s Den – but he isn’t buried there but there is some dirt from his grave there. His tomb is 18 metres long.

One thing we have noticed is the weather is getting much, much warmer and drier. So we are preparing ourselves for some extremely hot days as we drive West.

The Observatory has only one large fragment of the sextant of polished marble left – it was used to measure the length of the days. Timutrid was on a par with other greats of the age of discovery – Tycho Brahe.

 

9 June and 10 June

Samarkand to Aydarkul Yurt camp to Buckhara

Everyone was excited because tonight we were sleeping in a yurt. Due to my Visual Art teaching I have worked with felt for a long time, telling students about the qualities of wool. Yurts often came up in discussion. Now I can say I have slept in one in the desert. Setting off Samarkand  for the Yurt camp the landscape changed rapidly from irrigated fields and orchards to rocky, barren, rolling hills with steep craggy mountains in the distance. Summer and the heat is starting now but the green Spring grasses haven’t browned off yet. As we drove along the haphazardly patched road the wind blew through the grasses to either side of us creating waving green velvet like patterns. Quickly this lush scene changed again to short, spikey, shrubby bushes dotted with very shaggy black, brown and shite sheep and goats. Occasionally, a death defying gerbil would hesitate on the road’s edge before scampering back into the shrub. Run Gerbil Run! n Go!!  Finally and I mean finally we arrived after ploughing our way through sand and camel dung. There they were REAL yurts and we had one per couple!

To relax we were able to have a SWIM in a fresh cool clean water lake which was nearby – it was enormous stretching for KMS caused by a botch up by the Russians when they were building a dam. Hmmm, created a huge lake but managed to cause the Aral Sea to be almost dry……..

The only company we had while we swam and sunned our selves on the shores of this magnificent lake was a herd of sheep and goats which came by for a drink.

So what else do you do before dinner in the desert but go for a camel ride. And you do see very interesting things from up high such as dung beetles busily and laboriously rolling camel dung into perfect balls and them rolling them into their burrows…..

After a traditional dinner of soup and bread and vodka we sat around a bonfire and were entertained by one of the owners on a traditional 2 string guitar.

The hot desert wind blew the sand everywhere but we were very comfortable in our yurts thank you very much.

Next day we had a long journey – driving back over 150 kms on the delightfully pot holed roads. But this morning we didn’t count on suicidal birds either flying across the car or sitting in the middle of the road as we sped along.  We interrupted the carnage when we stopped next to a huge hill covered in dark slate and quartz near an oasis. ( a small creek in the desert). One of our team Tony had read this area was famous for Petroglyphs. So we thought we’d go for an explore. Must admit I felt like an archaeologist on a dig in a Hercules Poirot detective movie. Climbing up you could find and identify these early Bronze age carvings clearly – not the ones others have tried to imitate but shapes of camels, goats, snakes could be seen, these were clipped out one flake at a time in to the slate with pieces of hard rock such as quartz. Lots of tiny individual clips closely placed together to form the image of the goat, fox, snake or camel. Sometimes we found one or a group of animals on one rock.

Absolutely fabulous!

 

 

 

 

Big and Over the Top in more ways than one!

6 June – Tashkent Uzbekistan

Fat tailed sheep in the street

Tashkent is an interesting blend of white, big and marble modern buildings, leftovers from the Soviet area and Western Europe – so much so you could go to a very good Teppenyaki restaurant if you wanted too.

 

We set off for a walking tour of Tashkent. We visted the Khast Imam Complex – a religious center of the city consisting of the Barakkhan Madrasah, Kaffal Shashi Mausoleum and the library of Islamic Literature with the Holy Koran Book of the VII century. Once again the inlaid tile work and calligraphy was the highlight. The Library of the Holy Koran Book of the VII century displayed many beautiful examples of calligraphy, including the oldest copy of the Koran made by Caliph Ultman in the 7 century.

We explored the Chorsu Bazaar. We enjoyed many fruits from a market on the way to Tashkent. Cherries, apricots mulberries – white and black. Home made nougat in enormous copper pots to which sesame seeds, nuts and dried fruits could be added. Delicious!

 

Visited the modern part of Tashkent by metro including some of their impressive underground metro stations such as one dedicated to the Soviet astronauts and exploration of Space. Other places were Amir Timur Square,  Earthquake Memorial and  Independence Square.

7 June

Tashkent – Samarkand

 

A run down the E40 expressway between Tashkent – Samarkand (not the Silk road I had imagined). Once again the name of the game was dodging pots holes, zippy cars, donkey drawn carts laden with hay. One the way we came across a small area populated by storks perched on the tall electric power poles; sometimes up to 3 or 4 on one pole – just mum and the 3 kids.  

 

In Samarkand, we left the cars and took a city tour to its famous Registan Square (which means “desert” in Persian) and three madrassahs (religious study centers) surrounding the square: Ulughbek Madrassah (XV c), SherDor Madrassah (XVII c), and Tillya-Kari Madrassah (XVII c) – covered with gold. (breathtakingly golden). We visited Gur Emir Mausoleum (tomb of Tamerlane),  –  beautiful; Shakhi Zinda Necropolis (XI-XX CC). Continue sightseeing with Bibi Khanym Mosque – built by Amir Timur (Tamerlane) in XV century and Siyab Bazaar. Words are insufficient to describe the richness and beauty of these buildings and Square.

Seeing these monuments and structures built centuries ago is awe inspiring. The craftsman ship, designing, planning and TIME that went into them. And above the power of usually one ruler to conceive these plans and conquests.

The Silk Road is a magnificent feat.

The history of the Stans is so complex and varied you can see the various influences in the people, their faces and buildings. We are privileged to be travelling through so many countries and we can see the constantly changing landscape and weather and infrastructures. Above all people have been genuinely interested and happy to see us.

 

 

Hello again and Happy Birthday…

Monday 5 June

FINALLY able to start uploading all my blogs! the internet connections to wordpress have been impossible for AGES SO here goes…. Will probably add all the writings and add in the photos later….not sure yet.

Ferghana to Tashkent Uzbekistan

I never thought that I would be celebrating one of my birthday’s in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. We set off to visit the ceramic studio of master ceramist Rustan Usmanov in Rishta. We were shown the whole process of how the clay is thrown onto a wheel and moulded into beautifully shaped vases, and bowls. The clay is terracotta and before bisque firing is coated with a kaolin slip to create the white background onto which intricate patterns are handpainted using fine goat hair brushes and glazes made from cobalt, copper and manganese. Each artist interprets the traditional patterns. The design is drawn or stencilled on using powdered charcoal which is applied over the pin pricked stencil. The painted work is glazed with a mixture made from quartz and ash from a plant, before its second firing.

Of course I couldn’t resist buying a few tiny bowls.

Setting off from the ceramics studio we drove to the Palace which is now a museum, the ceilings and walls are covered with colourful and intricate designs. In Kokand (Qoqan) (2nd only to Bukhara as a religious centre) we visited Juma (Friday) Mosque Khudoyar-Khan Place, Kamol-Kazy Madrassah and Norbut-biy Madrassah on our way to Tashkent. Madrassah means place of learning and teaching. Numerous alcoves surround the courtyard and often have trees or fountains in the centre. The buildings are covered with intricate mosaic/cut tile inlaid work, calligraphy, painted wood beams and ceiling, carved wooden pillars, plasterwork, carved wooden doors and carved marble and stone. The list is endless. Another highlight were the elaborate chandeliers. We visited the Palace of Khudaya Khan 1863-1874,now a museum in with only 19 out of 113 rooms remain of one of the most opulent palaces in Central Asia.

 

Driving to Tashkent we crossed another high pass and we greeted by soaring eagles, the journey down was rough and steep but the views were amazing – still don’t know how the big trucks get up the gradients.

 

In the evening we celebrated my birthday at Caravan a traditional restaurant filled with a waterwheel, wall hangings, pottery jugs and yummy food, wine!! And beer!! The freshest and tastiest stuffed vine leaves I have ever tasted. They even prepared a cake for me.! To finish off a wonderful evening with all our MG friends the band came in and played Happy Birthday.

Silk on the Silk Road

Binding areas of silk to remain white and dyeing rest

Sunday 4 June

Ferghana

The Ferghana valley is known as the Uzbek fruit and cotton basket. This was evident when we walked into the market and the stalls were brimming to overflowing with the most delicious bright ripe cherries, nuts, dried fruits, apricots and bananas, plums, cheeses and vegetables of every description. We walked here from the Yodgorlik, a silkmaking factory. Here we were shown how they produced silk thread and the traditional Ikat patterned fabrics.

Silk worms in boiling water and threads taken up to be spun into one thicker thread

spinning the thread

Unwashed and washed silk thread

This factory was once owned by the Soviet government but since liberation in the 1990’s it is now privately owned and run. Uzbekistan sells its silk mainly to China and is looking to increase its production in the coming years.

We watched the whole process which hasn’t changed for centuries. The cocoons are plunged into a cauldron of simmering water. The hot water dissolved the saliva of the caterpillar, using a stick the operator gathers up 20 – 25 threads and connects them to a large wooden spinning wheel. Each cocoon produces a single long thread about 1500mts long. The factory collects the cocoons from farmers who feed the caterpillar mulberry leaves. To spin a cocoon takes about 40 days. The caterpillars which are left are feed to fish and chickens.

The spun thread is then spun into skeins, washed and stretched several times before being marked out and bound for the intricate dyeing process which results in a colourful Ikat pattern. One bundle of thread is about 240 mts long.

The silk thread can be mixed with cotton providing a thicker thread. A master weaver threads the looms for the women who weave the pattern on a traditional foot loom. The colours and patterns are intricate and colourful and the women can weave between 4 to 6 metres of fabric a day. This factory produces different types of silk, one is used for parachutes.

It is amazing to see what beautiful fabric one little caterpillar is able to produce.

Uzbek home stay

Friday 2^nd June Toktogul to Arslanbob,

On the road to Uzbek home stay

Fresh out of the tandoor

Saturday 3  June Arslanbob to Ferghana via Osh

 

Upon arrival at Arslanbob, where we were staying at a home of an Uzbek family, we explored the village which was situated in one of the largest walnut forests in the world, we watched as bakers took out round sesame covered loaves of bread from a tandoor styled oven. After buying a few provisions, we heard the call to prayer echoing throughout the valley and the shop was promptly shut and the young boys who ran the shop and spoke excellent English hurried off to Friday evening prayers.

Using clay for walls on buildings

 This is the furthest Alexander the Great went during his many campaigns. He also is reputed to have bought the walnuts from Arslanbob back to Macedonia.

The home stay evening meal involved a traditional meal of soup and beef and tomato and cucumber and chilli salad, tea, apples, honey, biscuits, Plov a rice dish and piece of meat and bread, all taken while sitting on cushions on a raised platform at a very low table which you put your bare feet –  no shoes are allowed inside. A little like going Japanese really. Our room had traditional bedding and furniture and the bathroom was outside. Needless to say, after a very long and arduous day driving over some atrocious unmade roads, through countless herds of horses, (this area is famous for its horses), sheep, goats and cattle, fording little streams as well as contending with massive lorries belching noxious fumes, we had an early night.

During the day’s drive we drove through more mountainous landscapes covered with jagged rocks and towering conifer forests as well as skirting two massive reservoirs from Toktogul to reach our homestay.

On Saturday morning, instead of driving down from our home stay at a lovely Uzbek Muslim family’s home I walked down the outrageously rocky track…it helped lighten the car so its underside wouldn’t hit the rocks and potholes. So far Shamrock has been doing so well. We had to do some adjustments to the exhaust system after the car sustained a few direct hits and bottoming out on some of the roads recently. I am still doing a little of the driving but when it has come to the kms of unmade rocky tracks, Peter has done a wonderful job of nursing Shamrock over the many kms of tracks and potholed roads. The pot holes are huge and require everyone to drive slowly and some times on the other side of the road!  

 

On our way to the border we stopped at Osh, a 3000 year old town with many crumbling fortresses and tombs of long gone rulers, where many Muslim make a pilgrimage too. We stopped near the mosque and enjoyed a relaxing picnic lunch under the trees.

Saturday also took us across the border of Kyrgyzstan to Uzbekistan which took about 3 ½ hours included the cars being X-rayed and our luggage being scrumptiously examined. By the end of this we were hot and very tired. But the officials were friendly and interested in having their photos taken in the cars and even taking one for a spin through no-man’s land.

Horses on the move

We noticed an immediate change in the economic landscape and infrastructure when we crossed the border. The roads in Kyrgyzstan were indescribably bad or non-existent whilst the roads here were marginally better. As we drove towards Ferghana the pot holes were at least filled in, causing the car to bounce over the bumps, the housing was more intact but still everywhere you looked unfinished buildings were evident. The roads had guttering 

and flowers and grapes vines grew up to the roadside. Another noticeable thing is the friendliness and interest of people as we drove along. This has been evident through out the Stans. Some even tried to hand us cherries and apricots into the car while we were driving. People waved, tooted and took photos or videos of the cars, all while they are driving very close to us. There are still many old Soviet buildings but the people are now building more interesting and modern housing and starting to re-establish their Uzbek identity.

Mountain High, Roses and Railway Station

May 31

Bishkek

Another remnant of the Soviets. This was evident especially by the railway station which had an elaborate map of the extent of the Soviet railway system and very fancy ceiling decorations – nyet to photos though. The station had an eerie isolated feeling to it, maybe it was because it had been built by Germans soldiers who were captured by Russia during the WW11. We tried to visit the museum of Fine Art but that was in a state of disrepair and other museums were either being demolished or renovated. But the gardens and parks which surrounded them were beautiful, full of colourful fragrant roses.

A pass and road conditions

We stopped for lunch at a quaint restaurant called Alice in Wonderland situated outside the Library and directly two fields full of dark red roses. The light shades were lavishly decorated top hats and we were watched over by several fake flamingos. The food was delicious and surprisingly very European in flavour and service.

1 June

River at forest guest house

Herds of Sheep on the road

Bishkek – Toktogul

Snowy peaks

Shamrock in the snow

Today we travelled over two high mountain passes which would take us to our forest retreat by a thunderingly loud river. We travelled across the Suusamur Basin this classic Kyrgyz grazing country was dotted with yurts and caravans selling horse milk cheese , yoghurt and honey and grazing herds of cattle, sheep, goats an many herbs of horses, many which had just foaled.Wild flowers of yellow, blue, white and pink and purple washed the green hills  and plains with swathes of colour and fragrance. We crossed Tor Ashuu Pass at 3586 mt, snow surrounded us again. We pushed on further to Ala Bel Pass at 3186mt before rapidly descending to Chychean Gorge. The gradients are very steep and there are many trucks slowly grinding up hill or trucks riding their brakes on the down hill run.

Before we know it we were in an idyllic forest setting with a icy aquamarine coloured torrent right on our doorstep. In fact the noise from the river made it almost impossible to hear each other speak, if standing outside.

Yurt on road side selling horse cheese.

Foaling mares

Forest guest house with raging river

Dinner was held around a large wooden table set with 3 large vases of freshly picked field spring flowers and herbs. Trout, beef and lamb were on the menu along with borscht. After the meal we watched another group starting to dance and the women invited us all in to particate in some traditional dancing. Amazing to think the only way of communicating was through heaps of smiles and following their dance moves. Even the guys joined in and were instructed on a horse riding dance. We all had a ball, leaving us with a warm and fuzzy feeling that people are the same all over the world when it comes to having fun.

Old Soviet pass

 

 

 

Rocky Roads and Hot Springs

Monday 29 May and Tuesday 30 May

Note the white knuckles and terrified faces

Karakol and house stay in the mountains in Altyn Arashan valley onto Bishkek

HI HO Silver riding the valley

Melting icefloes and one of our luxurious Russian transport

How quickly the scenery, people and food change. We were in for an amazing experience! In the morning our transport to the Altyn Arashan valley, for an overnight stay was waiting – a very old Soviet army transport truck retro fitted with old aircraft seats from an ancient Alusian Russian plane. One of the team had to find a seat on the floor. We bounced and jigged along the country road towards our destination – not long to go was the cry from our guide, only 17 kms. Little did we know that this short trip was to take nearly 3 ½ hours! As we approached the base of the mountains the road disappeared and the old truck began to labour up and over boulders, ford streams befor delivering us to our next pick up stop. There was no road or track at times the truck moved at snail pace. In fact you could have walked faster. The next truck was waiting by a field of glacial ice about 2-3 mts high. As the truck was even slower as it climbed and crunched its way up the mountain sides we had a good look at several icefields which were running into and over the stream . The scenery helped to distract me from the sheer drops into the valley below.

 

A good part of our rocky road.

The valley with yurts and small wooden huts

Finally we arrived in a beautiful valley with yurts and a few wooden houses by a raging glacial stream. In the background snow capped moutains towered over the conifers growing on sides of the surrounding hills. The smell of spring flowers and herbs filled the air as we walked across the grass. Men on horseback galloped by and herding dogs were barking as they guided the sheep and cattle.

These wooden huts are only lived in by the drovers during the summer after the snow has melted. We were in for a treat our guide said if we wanted to we could go to the hot springs nearby. These are located next to the icy cold stream. In we went to a wooden, very rustic shed which had a huge tiled spa in it, filled with very hot water straight from the spring. Wonderful to ease  our aching bones after the rock and roll rough ride up the mountains. We even managed to locate natural hot pools next to the rapidly flowing river where you could relax. Some team members hiked higher up into the valley while Peter and Mike went for a horse ride into the surrounding mountains accompanied by one of the drovers faithful German Shepherd dogs. What a fabulous place to go hiking in. Several young hikers did walk past, looking for accommodation. They told us the hike from the bottom to the top took more than 5 hours. 

Outdoor hot spring next to glacial stream

It was so relaxing sitting outside chatting in the warm sun on chopped logs and homemade felt rugs after the hot springs, but once the sun started to set the chill of the mountains descended. We enjoyed a traditional mountain dinner before turning in. The only power they had was a solar panel which gave them a few hours of light.

Watching out of my window the stars and moon were so clear and bright and bought to an end a terrific day.

The next morning, breakfast was bread which resembled chapatis, freshly cooked on the wood stove, rice porridge and tea. Then the arduous truck ride down the mountain began, back to Karakol to collect our MGs. We travelled a little faster this time and it only took 2 ½ hours but I’m not sure if I preferred the descent which I think was even scarier than going up.

Today’s drive to Bishkek was a long one because the road conditions continued to be rough. But the scenery made up for it. The road took us along the edge of Lake Issykkul (warm) lake. This lake is huge and is surrounded by snow capped mountains, it is so big you can’t see to the other side. The lake is the second largest alpine lake in the world after Lake Titicaca – surprisingly  Lake Issykkul is slightly salty. On the way through the mountains we encountered snowfalls and the wind made lunch a chilly affair. We only lasted about 10 minutes outside because it started to snow again.

Driving to Bishkek we  saw many road side yurts selling horse mild chees balls which is meant to be tasty with a beer. When we drove into Bishkek we wondered how the city’s roses could look so beautiful despite the noxious fumes from the 80 Octane petrol all the trucks and cars were expelling.

It was a long and tiring day and we were all glad to settle in our rooms and spend the next day or so exploring Bishkek.